Earthshakes

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The recent earthquakes in West Java and Sumatra followed directly on the heels of ol’ Glory and my path through surf paradise. Literally 4 days after A&D and I departed West Java a 7.0 earthquake rocking all the beach communities we were vacationing at. Our friends were all fine and no one was killed in Cimaja village where we were staying, however many perished in nearby communities. ([Story](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2009_West_Java_earthquake))
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I left for Padang, West Sumatra and our surf charter was based out of the regional capital which was just hit by a 7.6 earthquake killing an undetermined number of people. ([Story](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2009_Sumatra_earthquakes)) We left our Aussie boat captain, his Indonesian wife, daughter (6) and son (2) at a hotel approximately 2 weeks ago and have not heard anything about their well being.
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The people of Indonesia are a warm and welcoming people. Almost everyone we met on our travels was stuck in one of the hardest hit zones of one of these two quakes and have been dealing with the aftermath every since. We literally dodged a bullet and I consider myself lucky.
Anyway, Indonesia is hit hard by these natural disasters on a frequent basis and it throws the country back from its progress into poverty and despair. The Muslim extremists thrive on the poverty and ignorance of the country’s indigent. Indonesia is the worlds most populous Muslim nation and also serves as a model for moderate Muslims, despite fringe groups. But the world needs Indonesia to be a stable, democratic nation. They have a very pro-American president, SBY who is very popular. Anyway, these recent events touched me deeply and I felt compelled to donate to Surfaid, a non profit group which brings relief to these areas. If you want to toss a couple dollars toward the relief effort, please do. Thanks.
[Donate Here](https://www.kintera.org/site/apps/ka/sd/donor.asp?c=ekLPK4MOIsG&b=288182&en=njJRIXMFJaKKLXPMLhJKLXOFJdKZLiNQKbJQKaOTJkIUK5PPKxF)

Surfing’s the source man… swear to God

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Today Ol Glory and myself will be traveling back to the Indonesian archipelago to fill up on our share of tasties. It’s been a long time and we’re hungry. In fact we’re so hungry we could eat the ass out of a dead rhino, Utah! Two!
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This is stimulating, but we’re out of here.

Little hand says it’s time to rock and roll

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Yesterday Ol Glory and I purchased two tickets from LAX to Jakarta on August 14th.  The two self-proclaimed leaders of the Outdoor Adventure Squad are going back to Indonesia to catch a couple tasties.  If any soul is brave enough to join us, I wholeheartedly encourage you.  Dan?

The following video is from a little malaria infested island off the coast of Java we may try and get to.  Wish us luck.

Scratchin!

Back off Warchild, Seriously.

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This Calvin and Hobbes is funny!

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This always makes me smile.

I’m taking the website back from the Beisbol Bloggers

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In an attempt to distract from the Doyer’s probable doom, I’d like to mention Kelly Slater has recently won his unprecedented 9th World Title.  The man is pushing 40 and has a firm grip on the top spot.  The video is highlights from his recent win at Trestles in San Clemente this September.  Surfing’s the source man.  Swear to God.

That’s all I ask for, just 90 seconds of your life Johnny, that’s it.

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For anyone who sucks, let me bring you up to speed.  There was a movie which was released in 1991 called ‘Point Break’.  This movie featured territorial surfers, FBI agents, bank robberies, shootouts, skydiving, naked females and meatball sandwiches, best i ever tasted.  This movie was shown to me by my late uncle and literally changed my life.  I literally frequent secret beaches with chemical signatures similar to the Ex President’s home break, I say ‘Brah’ far too often and have been robbing banks in the LA area for years to fuel my endless summer.

The movie ended with surfer/bank robber Bodhi (Patrick Swayze) paddling into massive death defying Bells Beach Australia.  The movie ends, suggesting Bodhi died in the massive waves.  Apparently he didn’t die, he paddled to Indo.

The Gods have smiled on MOM by giving the green light to ‘Point Break Indo’.  Internet sources are buzzing with speculation about the return of the original stars. Here is a brief synopsis I found online:

When Billy Dalton, military special ops and star surfer, is
disqualified from the pro-surfing tour, he takes off for the coast of
Bali looking for the perfect wave.  While there he’s recruited by a
private security force who are trying to find a gang known as The Bush
Administration, surfing outlaws and modern day pirates who work like
“The Ex-Presidents,” a bank robbing crew from Malibu twenty years ago.

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The Bush Administration!! Holy shit, thats amazing.  Casting news has not been released, but it is rumored Reeves will not return, but as long as Bodhi lives I’m happy.

Jan de Bont will be directing and the production company believes that
they will be filming the “most extreme action stunts ever caught on
camera
.”
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If anyone has noticed all trash talking from my fantasy football team, ‘The Ex Presidents’ in will be carried out using lines from the original ‘Point Break’.  (That team name is picked prior to the news for the sequel.) I’ve actually handed over management duties of the EX Presidents to A&D so I could focus full time on ‘Point Break’ trash talking.

Needless to say I’ll be somewhere sweet in LA on opening night, drunk and in costume.  If they film in IMAX, I’m there.

‘The Dark Knight’ is to Letters
as
‘Point Break Indo’ is to MOM.

Filming may not have even started yet, so speculation about release dates may be a bit premature, but I think a surfer party is in order, maybe a little beach football, tequila shots, bonfire, stealth mission. Who knows?

“Life sure has a sick sense of humor, doesn’t it?”

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Bunker and Warchild would not be pleased…

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This post is directed at the Rabbi of Leisure and his ‘yes
man’….

 

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“Okay, so this is where you tell me all about how locals
rule and yuppie insects like me shouldn’t be surfing your break and all that,
right? No. That would be a waste of time. We’re just going to fuck you up….on
the blogosphere.”

 

True Story:

 On a sunny afternoon 4 guys (3 IFS members) struck out on a
surf mission to a local spot.  This spot
was actually featured quietly in the hit movie ‘Point Break’, including a famous
‘localism’ intimidation scene. 

Although this surf spot is no secret, it is a bit off the
beaten track and I won’t go into the etiquette and complexities of showing up
at an uncrowded, quality surf break with only a few people in the water, but in
short, you must be respectful and tread lightly. 

After the OC crew took a trip back to the car to fetch sun
screen to prevent dry skin and rashes, we hit the water.  OC team leader quickly surfs a set wave,
while OC towel boy cheers him on by hooting and hollering. “There’s not enough
wax on my board. This water is cold, I wish I had a better wetsuit, I usually
wear booties, my feet go numb easy.”
were a few choice expressions from the guy
you don’t want talking to you in the lineup.

After more than an hour surfing in excellent conditions, our
esteemed Rabbi of Leisure realizes he is late to take his 17 year old sister to
the Kanye West concert in San Diego
by 7pm.  A mid-lineup freak out ensues, “We’ve
got to go! MOM! Art and Design! towel boy! we have to go RIGHT NOW!  I’m so late, oh my god, oh my god!”
The Rabbi
exclaims.

I reluctantly paddle for a wave and ride it to the beach
where I proceeded to question the Rabbi about the seriousness of his public outburst.  (Direct Quote)  “My parents are going to be so pissed” he relayed with the utmost
urgency.  “Can’t you find someone else to
take your sister to the Kanye West concert? 
Why can’t she drive herself, she’s 17.”
 
I manage to say without laughing at the reason for our
immediate departure. 

At this point A&D and I were not prepared to leave a beautiful,
almost empty lineup for a seemingly ridiculous errand.  After serious negotiation and justification I
allow OC team towel boy to drive my car back to town so team OC can return home.  (I allow OC team towel boy to drive, since
the Rabbi can’t drive a car with a manual transmission.)  “We’ll either get ‘Competition’ to give us a
ride, or we’ll take the bus.”

Two OC ‘tenderfeet’ depart in a hurry, driving my car. “Utah! Get me Two!”

After a few more hours of empty, beautiful surfing
conditions A&D and I are exhausted and content with bellies full of tasty
waves.  30 miles from our house, “Gee I wish
we had a car.”

After a small walk to a bus stop, A&D and I bundle our
dripping wetsuits into hobo packs and wait patiently for the Express #3
bus.  “How did you get your boards here?”
the bus driver inquires.  “We drove a car
here, but then someone took our car back without us.”
We replied.  “Someone stole your car?!” he exclaimed.  Not exactly.

We were placed in the back of the bus where our boards would
fit in between the bench seat.  The
driver had to ask a couple of day laborers to move to accommodate our equipment.  The picture above was taken on the bus and
illustrates our frustration with our tenderfoot surf companions and also
captures the beauty of public, urban surf transport.  ‘Viva los Dodgers!’ A&D and I share a
laugh on the enjoyable and peculiar bus ride back to town.  Competition picks us up at the local bus
terminal and we return home.

Please understand, I post this story not as an example of
why I’m cooler or better than our companions. 
I post this story to highlight ridiculous behavior which fulfills the
stereotype of everything you try and avoid. 
When a 25 year old is begging his friend to help him, because of the
threat of parental repercussions and Kanye West concerts, you have to laugh at
yourself.  It’s important to listen to
yourself speak and make sure you sound sane. No harm intended, just a bit of
comedy.

“Back off Warchild, seriously.”

A Little Taste of Leisure

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Outdoor Adventure Squad Update

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Nicaragua_rel_97This just in…. The mighty OAS is embarking on a new adventure.  Nicaragua. 
Defense and myself are flying down to Central America this Friday to meet up with the Rabbi of Leisure just in time to catch a new southern hemisphere swell next week.  The waves should be as tasty as the Nicaraguan pancakes.  We will be in the southwestern coastal area, blessed by constant offshore winds due to the massive inland Lake Nicaragua….Bra!
Nica_surfNicaraguacowboyBy the good grace of flapjack we shall return to our home in less than two weeks time, just in time for Caruthers High School Football season.  Go Blue Raiders!

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